Oil change $25.00 or $30.00?
Where can I get an oil change for that price in this area. I called Mavis and they wanted $40 - $70.00. At this point my SUV is old. I don't need top grade A oil. I heard of a place in Bud Lake on Rt. 46. All they do are oil changes. I just don't know the name.
Mavis works on commission and will try to milk you for every dime go to firestone In mt olive those guys don’t work on commission and are reasonable . Lub plus in mt olive always is trying to change fluids and add on extras not worth it.
Go to the Auto Center at the Walmart in the Mt. Olive Trade Zone. The prices are clearly listed on the board behind the counter. I did have a few issues with them closing early or missing my car a number of years ago when they were short-staffed, but they seem to have corrected that the last time I was there. By the way, even though your vehicle is older, I wouldn't opt for the "older vehicle" oil change as long as you've been having your oil changed regularly.
Your owner's manual (and usually these days, also the oil filler cap) states which weight oil is recommended to use, such as 5W-30. You can request what it states, but they have a reference in the computer that tells them exactly which oil weight and filter is required by the manufacturer. They also have a checklist that they go through and they fill the other fluids on the car, if needed.
The only other issue I have is that they check the oil immediately upon bringing it in and shutting it off before the engine has a chance to "draindown" and will typically report that it came in a quart low because of that. For them to do it properly, they would have to check it in the parking lot before starting it to drive it into the garage area and you would have had to have had it parked there (on a level surface) for a good minimum of 15 minutes or so.
Or call Tire associates on rte 57 in Washington. They'll quote over the phone. Good price. Pay cash for discount.
Lube plus in budd lake get cupon on line cost you like 32 bucks all said and done and basically 5 30 and 10 30 are the same the first number is what the oil is at start up when it gets warm it's a 30 weight as for my suburban I run 10 40 in it almost 200000 miles.
Sometimes, car dealerships have coupons online on their websites under their parts/service department section. That's what I did. I got one for $24.95, which included car wash.
What is the suv year, make, model, engine? Then we can give you an idea of fair cost.
If you shop around, you can certainly do an oil change yourself and save money.
Understand though- a shop has to pay not only for the oil, filter, disposal, building, employee, lift, tools, electric, insurance, etc- and do a service for $25-30 is well- not going to allow them to make a profit and stay in business.
5W30 and 10W30 are NOT basically the same. The first number denotes how flowable the oil is in the Winter. The 5W flows at a colder temperature than the 10W does. In the Winter time it's important that the oil stay thin enough to get to all parts of the engine when started up to minimize wear on the engine. Cold starts, especially in Winter after the vehicle has been sitting overnight are when most of the wear usually occurs. It is important that you follow what the manufacturer of your vehicle recommends, as well as follow their oil and filter change recommendations.
For a better source of info, here's the Valvoline Oil site that explains it:
Just because Harold lucked out, that is, IF he didn't follow his vehicle's manufacturers recommendations, doesn't mean you will. Sometimes (at least back in the old days) the manufacturer allowed for optional oil weights, but not usually these days. Not following those can result in early engine wear OR can cause a loss of fuel economy and other issues if you go to a higher second number (after the "W"). While using a higher number can be done to compensate for worn piston rings, etc. that should be done ONLY on your mechanic's recommendation.
You don't need premium or synthetic motor oil unless your vehicle's manufacturer requires it.
I tried Lube Plus ONCE and won't go back. As some others have noted, their business model depends on trying to sell you on additional services, such as "transmission fluid changes" or replacing the cabin air filter, which they sell you at premium prices, even when the instructions to do so are in your owner's manual and you can buy a quality one for less at Walmart or any auto parts store. DIY is MUCH cheaper.
5 quarts of decent oil alone is going to be $25 and you haven't even put it on the lift.
Check maja2's posted link for the Walmart oil change. You can get a "Pit Crew" oil change with up to 5 qts. of Quaker State oil with new filter for $19.88. It's the most basic deal, but the best value is the $29.88 Standard oil change which includes check and fill of your other major fluids as well. It's rarely worth it to go for the High Mileage oil change, as I mentioned in my earlier post and it is more expensive as well.
The way they can offer you the lower prices is because the oil is distributed to them in bulk 55 gallon drums and is pumped/metered directly to your fill tube, saving costs on packaging plastic, which you'd be buying and wasting by buying 5 individual quarts.
$24.95 - I hope it helps or helps someone else looking for express oil changes.
I don't know if he can give you the price you want, but I will always vouch for Valley Auto on Main Street. Ted is a good mechanic and an even better person and he will work with you as much as he can when it comes to price.
For the last year or so, I have been going to Motor City on Plane St. in Hackettstown with a coupon that comes in the mail for $19.99.
Just go to valley auto and tire on main street in Hackettstown. Ted is totally honest. He'll help you out. He works on my 20 year old Jeep wrangler.
No idea what Ted @ Valley charged for an oil change but he’s the only honest mechanic I know of.
Highly recommend firestone Budd Lake. Rob and his team are awesome. They go above and beyond in customer service
Since this has evolved into a "what mechanic to trust" topic, I am always good with Mike at On The Move Auto, right behind the old Leo's on Main Street. Good shop and no bs.
I hit both ends of the spectrum.
One of my cars takes 3.5 quarts of oil.
One of my cars takes 12.5 quarts of oil.
For those that change their own oil, Amazon is running a great deal on their own Amazon Basics fully synthetic oil 6qt case for $21.24.
I picked up a case today myself based on the good online reviews and positive oil analysis results from many users online. They have multiple viscosities available at this price.
Valley tried to charge me over 500.00 for a job that was done somewhere else for 200.00. I'll pass.
re what callitlikeIseeit said thinking someone is trying to screw you. Maybe, but probably not as the difference could very well be the parts supplier and different brand of part.
For example. Lets say you need a brake rotor. Parts store A sells brand X for $50 to auto shop #1. Auto shop #1 sells that part to you for $100. Now parts store B sells brand Y for $100 to auto shop #2. Auto shop #2 sells that part to you for $200. Both shops share roughly the same for labor, as its book time. But you spend $100 less per rotor by going with auto shop #1.
Using that example, auto shop #2 isn't screwing you, its the brand of part and where its bought from that makes the difference.
Sure, using that example it would be true, however, most shops do use the mostly the same reliable parts stores and unless a customer purposefully asks for the premium brand, will normally go with a reliable mid-priced item. Otherwise you risk losing clientele by going with premium parts that the normal consumer (aka, non-enthusiast) would never be able to "appreciate" (such as slotted and cross-drilled rotors and ultra-sport pads) nor ever be able to reach the full potential of. Ones designed for enthusiast-level driving normally aren't suitable for regular road driving either.
The shops also get the wholesale price, then mark up to a price which is often equal to or just a bit greater than full boat retail from the supplier that the consumer could buy it at the counter when doing it themselves.
That said, sure the second auto shop could have gone with a mix of cheap (rather than quality inexpensive) parts and/or takeoff ones from the junkyard for all we (or "callitlikeIseeit", for that matter) knows, unless they have the estimate with brands/part numbers listed, as well as the receipt with the same info from the place that did the repairs for $200. Only then could anyone really judge what's actually happened. It could also be that the second shop didn't replace an item which normally gets done with that particular job, as is sometimes recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Again, it's hard to say, and both you and "callitlikeIseeit" have valid points, but information is lacking to actually make a call either way.
You would be amazed how often you get just a pad and rotor swap (and sometimes just pads)....only to have prematurely worn out pads on one side later on because of sticking/seized pins.
I don't know that I have ever even seen or heard of a shop disassemble/clean/lube pins like they should- they just replace when failed, at the owners expense.
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