Looking for feed back on Hondas CRV's
Looking to buy a 20 or 21 Honda CRV. If you had just bought one any feedback would be great and who would you recommend to go to. There is the one in town, Clinton, and Newton. I haved owned many vehicles Chevy, Pontiac, and the last 2 are Ford's. Never buying another Ford again. Do any feedback on the Hondas CRV's would be very helpful.
Thank you in advance.
Outdoor Women
Stymie I’ve had 2 CRV’s leases before, and I just started my 3rd lease with a 2021. I love it. This is the best one yet, and Honda of Hackettstown was very helpful with all 3. Definitely a lot of storage/cargo space.
KC I've owned 2. Family has owned 5 Hondas now. (actually extended family would make it 8 or something). I would not buy in Hackettstown. Newton is OK. Phillipsburg Honda is GREAT. We've had our best experiences there, with both buying and service. Can't recommend them highly enough. Bad experiences with Hackettstown Honda. I guess they have new management, but that bridge was burned.
JeffersonRepub Something to consider.
I’m getting 34-38 mpg with my RAV4.
After years of Jeeps and CRVs- to me, it’s like free gas.
(Not really)
But agree (?) with JeffRep
Skip Hackettstown Honda and try Clinton or Pberg.
Getting some great feedback. I so appreciate it. Keep them coming. I didn't even know there was a dealership in Phillipsburg! It didn't come up when I input our zip code.
We have a 2019 crv. Gas mileage is 33+. They have always been great vehicles, and go forever. The resale value is the best you'll get. All of the newer safety features are available.
maja2 Joyce Honda in Denville would be my choice. They have been in business for 50 years.
https://www.joycehonda.com/
CBGB don't buy a Honda, especially from the dealer in Hackettstown ! I have a HR V and its in the shop more times than driven. Judging from the waiting service area which is standing room only it's not a good thing to see. it's saying there bad.
Went for an oil change and they said I needed a differential fluid change I only have 14000 miles. I refused of coarse because who heard of that on a new car. Hackettstown Honda are CROOKS and FUDGE mileage on there paper work.
Buy a different brand auto.
tangerine My son just bought a 2021 CRV hybrid and loves it. He had a 2014 a couple of cars ago. He got it at P-burg Honda and is very happy with them after a bad repair experience at Hackettstown Honda.
Rbilly I had bad service from Valley Auto in the center of town, doing work that was unnecessary and missing necessary work. So Honda is not the only one.
dodgebaal So far Pberg Honda is looking like the place to go!
Just a reminder I have had 2 Ford's and nothing but trouble with them since day one. I need to try something different. So far one person has said not to buy a Honda CRV.
I have a Hyundae and a recently purchased 2020 CRV. I turned in a 2013 CRV, bought new, which I never had one issue with. The Hyundae dealership disappeared and the national office refused to honor the balance of my local warranty items. I bought the new CRV from Hackettstown Honda without a problem and that experience was fine. In the past I had issues with their service department as well. New team, will try it out, if an issue develops, will go elsewhere. Bottom line, stuff happens. The CRV is a great, simple and reasonable priced car.
I have had my used cars serviced at Ted's Valley Auto for over a decade (prior to the first CRV). I have never...never...had one problem with his service, customer service, or pricingN
New2this RAV4 is the better choice, especially the hybrid. The CRV hybrid may be a good choice, but the newer non-hybrid CRVs seem to have mechanical engine issues, i.e. oil burning.
iJay I have a 2017 CRV Touring model and love it, lot of room, 37 mpg on the highway, we drive to Arizona for the winter it is a pleasure to drive 2500 miles a 4 days.
This website has a lot of info from owners
https://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/gen-5-2017-2021-uk-2018-2022-cr-v.137/
Not in NJ Anymore Stuff I have learned buying cars the past 40 years...
First, before you negotiate you need to decide on a car, and when I mean decide, I mean make model, options and even the color and interior. You may have to flexible on color , but there's usually no difference on price for color. That means test-drive it and then leave the dealership without leaving your number, e-mail , or any contact info. The only way to get the very best deal is to deal with the internet sales department for two simple reasons. A. You can't shop around multiple dealers simultaneously when you are stuck in a showroom. B. They are always slow to respond to get "approval" from their manager for a price request because they are hoping you will get tired out and just give up. Negotiating via e-mail over a couple of days destroys their advantages.
The Negotiating Process
1. Search the dealer inventories online for the exact car you are looking for. They usually give you the VIN Number, and you can usually find the same car at 4-5 different dealerships within a 60 mile radius if you live in a decent sized metro area, if you are not asking for something really unique like a pink Aston Martin. Ask for price requests from those 5 departments through an online questionnaire. DO NOT PUT down a phone number, or if you have to, a fake one, only contact information you leave is an e-mail address, no residential or mailing address.
2. You'll get an initial contact from someone within 24 hours via e-mail once the phone line doesn't work which is the first thing they'll try. Make it clear that you will negotiate over e-mail only, are soliciting multiple dealers for the best price, and want the quotes to be the out-the-door-price which means after taxes and fees. They will need your zip code to calculate taxes so they give them that. Do not let them talk to you about financing or if you have a trade-in. Tell them you are negotiating on the price of the car only and that those things won't be discussed until you find the dealer with the best price. Do not let them lure you into a phone call or insist you come in and talk to them. Eventually, they will all let you contact them via e-mail if you insist.
3. After you get the initial prices, and insist this is an out the door price after taxes and fees, take the lowest offer and take it to Dealer #2. So this doesn't take too long, tell them you will only go with them if they beat the price of Dealer #1 by at least $300.00. Insist, no matching will be accepted. They key thing about negotiating is for you to create the rules and be firm about it. Don't sound desperate, give them at least 24 hours to respond, but usually they will respond within a few hours. If they beat the price from Dealer #1 (which on the first round they usually will, since everyone starts with a high-ball offer) take that offer to Dealer #3, and keep on rinsing till you get the price. In later stages, you may want to say they can beat the price by only going down $200.00. You know you have the best offer when other dealers back out of the deal and refuse to counter. Not always true, but usually the best deal will end up being from a high-volume dealer in your area that can take a low margin. Even though the manufacturer sells the cars to the dealers for the same price, manufacturers will give rebates to dealers who sell higher volumes.
4. When you have the best offer, keep in your hip pocket the closest offer which will probably be within $200.00 A few dishonest dealers may try to give you an excuse when you get there to buy a car that they can't do that offer anymore, or that the car is gone, but that should be rare since by now you have established yourself as a no nonsense customer. Be prepared to walk out if the offer is even $10 more than what was initially quoted, they will either back down or you go to the second dealer. This will only happen rarely.
i had a rav 4 for the last 7 years.wife has a honda crv.just bought a new subaru forester the basic model. ilove it.on my first tank im getting 31 mpg.consumer reports rated it far better then the rav4 and crv.take one for a ride it is so quiet and smoothe.
mel I went from a CRV to a 2017 Forester and I miss the CRV. In the Forester I never notice when I'm almost out of gas until the light goes on. Not easy to see what speed I'm going. The main Forester dashboard is old fashioned but the center console is state of the art.
The light in the back of the Forester is very dim and off to the side, hard to find the switch in the dark and doesn't help much on a winter night. CRV had a nice bright overhead light in the cargo area. Have an ongoing issue with the passenger seat airbag sensor and now a new recall notice came out this month for something else.
hktownie We purchased an extended warranty because the 2017 was the 1st model year. Prices I was quoted in November 2017 for my new CRV Touring for HondaCare via the online Honda dealers noted below.
I purchased a D82 plan 120K miles, 8 years of coverage $0 Deductible . So for $1110 or $138 a year I have peace of mind given potential electric and engine problems. They offer many plans based on miles and years of coverage. I chose the D82 plan because I plan on keeping the CRV for a long time.
C/D= 120K miles, 8 years of coverage, see below link for coverage details.
Insurance Deductible per each claim.
C82 $100 Deductible
D82 $0 Deductible
I believe unless you are in Florida any of the Honda dealers will sell you HondaCare regardless of what state you are located in, call or email them for details.
College Hills Honda https://www.collegehillshondacars.com
D82$1120
Saccucci Honda https://www.saccuccihonda.com
D82 $1170
C82 $1065
Hyannis Honda https://www.hyannishonda.com
D82 $1110
C82$1005
Curry Honda https://www.curryhondacare.com/
D82$1260
C82$1155
Purchasing an extended warranty for a Honda is a huge waste of money. Nothing is likely going wrong in 120k miles. That's why they sell them, to make money.
Not only are they just sold to make the dealer money - but the prices are not set in stone as I found out years ago - they will negotiate just to get your money ---- don't do it
4catmom As noted in my post I paid $1110 for the warranty. The dealership I purchased the CRV from wanted $3K for the same warranty!! So yea shop around if you want the extra coverage.
I agree with the “negotiate over the internet” plan stated above, but be prepared to save hardly anything off MSRP. Vehicle prices (new and used) are absolutely insane at the moment. Short supply and high demand are in effect (also be prepared if the *exact* car/price you are emailing about gets sold to someone else in the meantime...).
Hind sight is 20/20... literally 2020... that’s when car prices were great. I know people that bought brand new cars early last year then sold them back for almost 40% more a few months later. (Paid ~$20K and sold for ~$28K).
Mark Mc. Short supply used cars? Honda in town has about 300 listed daily (273 today), recently in the 330s.
OnTheEdge OP is looking to buy new.
Honda recently suspended most of its North America production for over a week due to the global microprocessor shortage. At their typical volume that’s about 50,000 fewer vehicles in the pipeline. Not all CRV’s of course, but inventory is tight and commanding higher prices.
https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/new-car-shortages
I will never purchase extended warranties again I learned that when I had my first Ford. Just looking right now and trying to get feedback as to who has a CRV, and where is the best place to go.
I don't have a big budget so unfortunately Toyota and Nissan are out of the question.
Again I really do appreciate everyone's feedback it is helping me in deciding which way to go and, I have looked at other SUVs as well Kia the Outback Subaru but I'm still leaning towards the Honda CRV. More options for less bucks so I'm going to stick with looking at the Hondas.
Reading everyone's comments I get the feeling that everyone's been very happy with their Honda CRVs so that's why I posted this I needed some reinsurance because I'm going outside the first time I'm purchasing a vehicle that isn't a Ford a Chevy or a Pontiac well Pontiac doesn't even exist anymore.
Thank you all,
Rav4s and crvs are the same price. No idea what OP is talking about. And Nissans are cheap junk.
I was originally looking to buy sheanimal a new CR-V for her birthday back in February but I did a lot of shopping around and was able to find a 2018 Pilot EX-L AWD at Autosport in Bridgewater with only 20k miles on it for about $4k less than a 2021 CR-V LX without AWD.
No brainer...
ianimal Also, look into the oil dilution problem the crv was having with 2016+ models. Not pretty.
Oh, and tangerine, if I were you I’d change the differential fluid as recommended by the dealer (and Honda). My wife has a 2019 Passport that I changed the diff fluid on. Very easy job especially with the passports 9” ground clearance. Didn’t even have to Jack it up. Next diff fluid change is at 45k. Less if you’re doing any towing. I feel sorry for the poor sap that buys tangerines crv lol.
The dilution problem is with the 1.5 liter engine, the 2.4 liter engine in the base LX model. No problems with the 2.4 liter engine. I have 43k miles on my CRV with the 1.5 liter engine with no problem with oil dilution.
To the OP - have you even test driven a CRV yet? It's good to get other's opinions (no one person will ever be able to think of every nuance that the community at large has probably experienced with a specific vehicle) but sometimes YOU may just get in, drive it for a few minutes, and find something that doesn't work or isn't comfortable.
"Next diff fluid change is at 45k. Less if you’re doing any towing. I feel sorry for the poor sap that buys tangerines crv lol."
Wow, they must use water as a lubricant in those things... a Chevy/GMC owner's manual for a 2500 series pickup truck doesn't even list differential fluid as a service item (they weigh and tow a heck of a lot more than a CRV). I changed the rear fluid in my F150 at 72K miles and it came out looking like new. My owner's manual says 150K is the first service interval. Synthetic fluids are very impressive...
I know there are different clutch systems, etc. in the Honda's but still that's just crazy that they designed such a short service interval into it.
2015 CRV and we have had no real issues with it and would buy another. We got the CRV at Paul Miller after doing the internet pricing and they gave us the best deal.
MTSO Why mess with the CR-V? The RAV4 engine is rock solid along with the entire car. The 1.5l turbo, turbo will only wear out quicker? Only turbos on diesels make sense, but diesels are very dirty with the tiny particulate matter so purchase should be avoided.
We bought a CR-V in 1996, the very first model year, when you had to be on a waiting list to get one. Drove it daily until Memorial Day 2016, when we traded it in for a brand new one. We absolutely love them. So much so, we didn't even bother looking at anything else when we traded.
I will also say that, contrary to what someone said previously, we bought a new HR-V from Hackettstown Honda last year and have only good things to say about the buying experience and the subsequent service. (Granted, as the car is only a little over a yea old, we have not required any service other than regular maintenance.)
Monty I purchased a 2001 CRV new. It has about 93000 miles right now. Obviously my wife doesn't drive it all that much but it rides like that day I drove it off the lot. It's had regular service and has not given us any major issues in 20 years.
My car is a 2016 Pilot which now has 122000 miles on it. It's serviced at Honda of Hackettstown exclusively and like the CRV rides like a new vehicle. I had to replace the fuel injectors twice. The first time I paid for parts and labor, the second time, the dealership comped the labor and just charged me for the parts. My service advisor at the dealership phoned me around Thanksgiving to inform me that Honda was extending the warranty of the fuel injectors as well as another part that I had to replace. Honda refunded the full costs of all of the repairs. The service he provided by informing me saved me quite a bit of money. I have only positive things to say about the dealership.
Dr Bob You guys are great! Ya the Rav 4 was my first thought, but when I start to look at options the price quickly adds up!
As far as oil goes! My Ford is a 2010. I after the first 2 years everything went downhill from there.
In my opinion Ford does better with the f-150s and all their pickup trucks then they do their other models.
As far as oil and tire rotation's go I'm still old school and have it done every 5000 miles.
Honda offers free oil changes forever. I just had the oil and tire rotation's done at a local shop not saying names, but it was over $50.00. In the long run I have that extra cash for a payment on a new car.
Thank you to all for the advice everyone!
Below is the service on my CRV since new...
CRV Service
3.7 quarts oil fill w filter
3/26/2018 6617 Miles
Oil Change and Filter, 0W20 oil
$36.74
3/26/2018 6617 miles
Cruise Control update TSB 17-064
6/28/18 10765 miles
Change oil & Filter
Rotate tires
10/23/18, 18650 miles
Replace front windshield wipers
11/08/18
1 Year old :18,874 Miles
11/19/18 : 18,879Miles
Change oil and filter $68
State Inspection $ 80
Rotate Tires
Dec 12,2018: 19,788 miles
Change engine and cabin air filters
Jan 4, 2019: 20,031 miles
Recall Software update and AC Control
Change oil and filter
Jan 9, 2019: 20,240 miles
New tires
3/29/2019: 25,283 miles
Rotate tires
Replace one tire because of a nail.
7/30/2019. 29,693 miles
Change oil and filter
Rotation of tires
11/08/2019 34,814 miles
2 year anniversary
1 yr miles 15,935 miles
11/20/2019. 34,876 miles
Change brake fluid
State Inspection
11/22/2019. 35,021 miles
Rotate Tires @ Costco
12/10/2019. 35,485 miles
Replacement of engine air filter
15,454 miles driven since last changed 12/15/2018
12/23/2019 35,532 miles
Repair rattle passenger side by Scott Honda.
Installed heater clamp
Replaced and sealed strut top caps
Replaced front right wheel bearing
6/22/2020: 36,833 miles
Change oil and filter
11/2/2020: 39,747 miles
Rotate Tires
Pa Inspection
11/08/2020: 39,804 miles
Third anniversary of CRV.
4,990 miles one year of driving.
02/17/21 40,694 miles
New battery from Costco
3/31/2021. 41,095 Miles
Change oil & filter
The CRV has a maintenance minder based on miles driven it indicates when to do maintenance, oil, filter, brake fluid, etc etc. A wrench appears on the dashboard and the owners manual let’s you know what needs to be done. You can download the manual for free on the Honda website if you are interested in what you are getting yourself into.
A friend had t he CRV and loved it. Then she got a Subaru SUV and said that the SUV was a lot better in the snow than the CRV. She needs it for that.
MansfieldVillager Subaru's are the best. The 9.7" ground clearance and X Drive help a lot inn the Winter.
Subaru is recalling nearly 875,000 cars and SUVs in the U.S. because the engines can stall or a rear suspension part can fall off.
The stalling recall covers more than 466,000 Crosstrek SUVs from 2018 and 2019 and Impreza cars from 2017 through 2019. The company says in government documents that a computer can power the ignition coil after the car is shut off. That can cause a short circuit.
https://news.yahoo.com/subaru-recalls-vehicles-fix-engine-120147721.html
So like any used car if you go that way check the recalls.....
Goldie I know this is an old thread but hoping JeffRepub sees it and can answer if he still recommends Phillipsburg Easton Honda. Any other comments on that particular dealer are welcomed as well. They have a new pilot in the trim/color we like but I’ve never done business with them.
The Honda dealers east of here are a real trip. $899 Doc fees, wheel locks, window etching for $599 and a new one for me-$875 for “Perma Prep” which to the best I can find out is basically 3m ScotchGuard on the interior surfaces. I’d like to give Hackettstown a try but they haven’t responded after 2 emails so I’m done.
I emailed Phillipsburg Easton last night at 11pm and the general manager replied this morning at 7:46am saying the sales team isn’t in yet but he could help me. That actually surprised me as normally dealership GMs are more hands off when it comes to customer interaction.
And, the extended warranty sales pitch...
I can see, maybe, $799 doc fees for a Ferrari but $899 for a CRV is laughable ( https://www.nj.com/news/2022/01/are-vehicle-doc-fees-a-money-grab-nj-doesnt-limit-these-car-dealer-charges-like-some-other-states.html
)
PE Honda is awful to negotiate with. My current CRV is from Hackettstown Honda leased a 2020 and the negotiation was a pleasure. However, when I went to purchase the CRV at the end of the lease in December, they wanted to charge me an 899 fee. I bought my previous CRV from Joyce Honda. My buying experience there was a pleasure.
Hadenough I don’t mind tough negotiations, it’s the sleazy hiding of fees and last minute manipulation of financing rates etc.
I suggest you get preapproved for a loan from your bank, or some other financial institution and see if the dealer could beat or match your rate. At least you can avoid any financing aggravation
TJS I liked Sussex for sales, that was almost a decade ago though.
I have enjoyed their service. Was really great when I had the same contact for years. Now I have a new contact and it's still great. They have knowledgable, caring, folks facing you and they do what they say.
It has been far less expensive than my Subaru; I did not expect that.
babbit Honda on Rt. 22 was great to deal with (13 years ago). HT Honda - irresponsible at best. Sussex - better service (than HT). My friend loves Joyce Honda.
As for CRV as a vehicle. Don't get 1.5 liter turbo, unless you want to change oil 3-5 times, instead of 1 time (gas gets into the motor oil and Honda gives you a you-know-which finger). CRV's are, generally, good, although the models from 2012 year are made cheaper that the previous years. More gadget, but cheaper.
Overall, ToyoDas are better then Hondas, but, generally, these two makes are very good.
Pyc Pye Finally, someone confirmed what I've been asking about for 2 years about gas getting into the oil! I've asked other owners and they seem oblivious to it. Honda says it's normal-I know that is BS. My oil smells like a gas can. I change it every 5000 miles. Do you think I should do it more often? The only good thing is I see thousands of these
2018 or newer still on the road. I just worry about mine lasting after 100,00.00 miles. I'd really appreciate any information about this, you could give me. Thanks.
RA I just went through the mill in my search for a quality used car. In a nutshell, whether buying new or used:
1. NEVER pay outlandish doc fees, EVER! These fees are simply an add on rip-off and are generally arbitrary. Don't fall for the "they are required by law" malarkey, because they aren't. There is no universal "doc fee" charge, but many states set a limit on these bogus fees. New York has a $175.00 limit in place. NJ has no set limit, so the dealers are free to "attempt" to charge what they like. It's utter nonsense, don't fall for it.
2. The only LEGIT fees you should be paying on a car are the DMV fees and the state tax (NJ is 6.625%). That said, I personally will make a reasonable allowance for doc fees, because it's an unfortunate part of the negotiations. But I cap it at $150.00.
If a dealer refuses to budge on this, then negotiate the doc fee he insists on out of the price of the car. In other words: if he wants to keep his doc fee...OK but drop the buying price of the car to match it. If he doesn't agree to that then simply walk away.
3. Unless it's a new car, that vehicle transportation fee is an add on, and a complete cash grab. But even with a new car, that transportation fee is already built into the MSRP, so don't pay twice for it.
4. Any so-called "fee", beyond the legitimate fees, are simply BS, such as "prep fees" and the like. Be on the lookout for anything that doesn't make any sense, because those are the fees that they are counting on to fill their pockets at YOUR expense.
TBH, car buying, new or used, is a grueling process. It's filled with individuals who have only one goal in mind, be it dealer or private seller. You really have to do your homework and ask the right questions. You MUST be prepared to walk away from that shiny new toy you want, it's the best defense you have against them. You'd be amazed at how many of them become 'more flexible' when you simply get up and start to leave.
Above all, be as patient as you can be, be willing to leave, ask the right questions, and make sure to do a FULL INSPECTION of car, especially if it's used. A PPI (pre purchase inspection) is highly recommended. If they won't agree to one, walk away.
Good luck, just remember that it's a jungle out there, stand your ground.
only one truth RA,
To answer your question - yes, change oil more frequently.
Gas in oil is a contamination, therefore you ought to remove contamination often.
If your oil smells as gas at 3000 miles, change oil, if it smells so at 500 miles, change at 500 miles.
This is, in part, our, consumers (I dislike this word) fault - we still come to stealerships (and there's a merit to this word) and "beg" for a new overpriced vehicle.
Perhaps, we are still comfortably numb.
Many years ago a BMW rep answered the questions about his company success by saying that they change 20 thousand dollars for a 2 thousand car. Exaggeration, but it gives you an idea.
RA, remember, that word "normal" must understood as normal, but not as "good".
Example, a person drinks a glass of chlorox, esophagus' lining is chemically burnt, blood, foam, vomiting, etc. This is normal, given, that this is an appropriate reaction to an exposure. Thus, bad turbo-powered engine design by Honda and consequent oil contamination is normal in this case. They, at Honda, don't lie.
Honda knows that we, mere mortals, are framed to buy new (newer) vehicle for many various reasons. One of them is a fear that the old, used vehicles are prone to constant failures and need to be Fixed Or Repaired Daily.
Honda's behavior in the past 3-4 years became too aggressive and, to some extent, abusive. Many former Honda customers switched to other makers (mostly ToyoDa).
only the truth,
Bravo! if half of "us" would do as you outlined in your post, then there'd be a positive change or shift. Positive to us, the majority of folks.
Thanks, Pyc .I'll have to start "smelling" it and changing it more often, Maybe I need a new dipstick also, because I think it smells some even right after they change it. Time will tell, as some of the 2018 models should be coming up to the 100,000 mile mark soon.
Pyc and RA
Yes, indeed, gas getting into oil can evolve from a number of sources, whether that be the PCV system, sloppy cylinder ring clearances/tolerances, faulty composition or design of gasketing or seal materials, etc.
The problem is, once gas gets into the oil, it compromises the efficacy of the oil itself and can lead to cylinder washing, where the gas strips the lubricating film from the cylinders, as well as at various and sundry lubricating points in the engine, such as crankshaft journals, camshaft followers turbo bearings, etc. Any of these can be a major fail, with a blown engine and expensive repairs as the result. That's not a good look for a manufacturer, but as we learned in the 70's, there's what's figured as an "acceptable risk before a design element is changed or that the design continues until caught or forced to change. If lucky, a poor design will last only until the "fix" is found, and done, whether that be an improved seal composition or design, etc.
Phil D. I bought a 21 last year after having driven mini vans for 30 + years. I couldn't get my hands on another Toyota Sienna when I needed another car in 4 days. I ended up purchasing the CRV in PA. I had a question about the CRV and called the Hackettstown Dealership. They told me that since I bought it elsewhere, I needed to take it to them, Which I did. The PA dealer told me that should not have happened and that any other dealership should have taken care of me. So, I would stay away from the Hackettstown one.
The CRV doesn't have elbow room at all. When a passenger is riding with you, you constantly are bumping elbows. I guess I got spoiled with the vans because I would never have bought the CRV if I could have gotten my hands one. The van has a whole lot more room and I had 276,000 miles on it.
Today the dash lit up that some of the cars assistances may not work because of radar. Tomorrow I will be visiting HMI to see what that is about. The manual says it has to do with a view of some sort being dirty.
Good luck with your car. If you are petite and don't haul a lot of stuff it will probably be a great car.
Leave a Reply
To comment on this topic, fill out the form below. If you would like to comment directly to one person, you may click on the envelope next to the posters name if they provided their email.