Home Appliance Repair
We have an issue with our oven (General Electric) where sometimes when you start it, the oven doesn't actually light, and gas escapes into the house. Is there someone locally who is licensed and does these kind of repairs? A company anyone recommends?
Just Joe All my locals gone, I use A&E Factory Service. They have the Sears Contract.
But chances are it’s the igniter; google it, and see what you think. Besides the fact you have to handle like is a microchip, often the install is pretty much plug n play.
Hopefully someone else can advise since part isn’t cheap and I’d hate to be wrong.
Strangerdanger GE has it's own repair service, recently used it to have our washing machine fixed. You can schedule an appointment right online:
https://www.geappliances.com/ge/service-and-support/service.htm
JeffersonRepub Yup igniter.
Be aware depending on your model, it may have a recall for a defective part that can cause the igniter to fail.
There is no 'license' for appliance repair.
Josh does anyone know of a good repair person for gas stove. Igniters keep clicking once power is on at GFI,. thanks in advance
JimT As Josh had posted.... It happened to me on my gas range / cooktop.
The knob that turns on the gas to each burner, and then ignites the cooktop burner selected, has a switch like a ( clock spring ) on a steering wheel and as it turns to the lite position, there is a switch that closes and in turn, turns on the sparker module. I had to open the burner top, and found the front center burner switch was stuck in the on / lite position. I ordered a new one ( $ 17.00 ) from sears parts, and replaced it myself. All burners will click and spark, even though only one is selected and turned on. Search service providers that service your brand and model.
Embryodad Highly recommend Tom at 973-713-5772 for appliance repairs. Knowledgeable, reasonable and always on time as scheduled.
GWTWQUEENIE Bumping this topic up again.
I’m looking for a reliable company or individual to assist with cleaning the condenser coil on my Samsung refrigerator. I would do it myself however I’m unable to extract the refrigerator because it fits tightly between the dishwasher and the wall. It will likely require two people to slide it out of it’s location in order to gain access to the rear and the unit where the condenser coil is located. Any recommendations from the forum is appreciated.
BC Right in the classified section of this website is an ad for a person.
http://www.hackettstownlife.com/classifieds/59407
Greg As advice … I once asked our Appliance Repair guy who was repairing our Samsung dryer and our Maytag gas range often … what appliance do you recommend… the answer “Whirlpool”
LibertyThinker 
Mr. Resident LibertyThinker, I am on my second set of Samsung washers and dryers. The first set lasted 10 years with no repairs. The only reason I purchased the second set was because we moved and sold them with the house. I fully expect these to last the same. Well made, easy to use, and dependable in my life of 3 loads a week.
MK Second Tom Knudsen. Had him here yesterday for a problem with my washing machine and have used him several times in the past. Honest with no bull.
Pete MK- if you made it 10 years with a Samsung ANYTHING- with no problems- you are one of an extremely low %.
They are NOT well made at all- countless issues- all you need to do is go to Google and type in 'Samsung washer issue'- you can change out washer for dryer, fridge, dishwasher, whatever. Both them and LG- are garbage- and a LOT of people have problems in 2-3 years.
Of course 3 loads a week is very low use- but still, you are lucky.
Not that any appliance is made like they were 20-25 years ago or more...the closest you can get to old school is a Speed Queen washer / dryer- but nothing for a kitchen is built anything like they used to be.
Avoid anything made by LG / Samsung / GE / Frigidaire / Electrolux
Anything under the Whirlpool corporate umbrella is better- (but that doesn't mean they don't break- just less often)- so Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jennair, Amana, are decent- but keep it simple- the more bells, whistles, computers, sensors, etc- the more problems you will have- greater cost to buy, problems sooner, cost more to repair, and will end up in a landfill sooner.
https://www.facebook.com/All-Brand-Appliance-Repair-LLC-103526038907028/
All Brand Appliance Repair 973-713-5772
Gina Marie Anyone have experience with changing the plastic part that mixes the hot and cold water before it enters a washing machine? I’m not talking about the hoses. This is inside the back of the washer. Trying to decide if this is an easy fix or not. It’s on a 3 1/2 year old Electrolux front loader. Just outside the warranty period of course.
3wbdwnj Should be easy enough- the lid should have a few screws at the back holding it on.
Remove those and slid the lid back to release then lift off.
You will see the fill valve inside- you will need to disconnect the wires and hoses.
There will be screws holding the fill valve to the rear wall - take them out once everything else is removed and you are ready to swap.
If you get me the model # off the tag when you open the door- I can get you the part #, and probably a video and service manual.
Just curious- what is your symptom? The fill valves on any washer don't fail often.
Thanks so much Josh. We actually ordered the part from Amazon to be delivered tomorrow.
For an Elecrtolux, manufacturers apparently all use the same fill valve. The plastic cracked and was spewing water all over. Interestingly this is the same part that went on our old Bosch front loader.
Here’s what we ordered —>
That one is going to be more involved than the more typical style.
Yours mounts to the dispenser.
Again- if you get me the model #, I can get you more info to help.
For DIY jobs, YouTube is one of the greatest resources around. Here is a video of the job and what's involved. After you view it, you can decided for yourself if it's something you can do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpSxbYBIjb8
From what I saw, undoing all the screws to get access to where it goes is more work than actually putting the part in. The connectors are all plugin and color coded. Looks like a very easy job.
GC We are going to give it a whirl. For a $100 part, and if it fails again then we’ll start shopping around. Again. :/
Part # was changed from the original- so probably improved.
Current part #- 5304528029
Video, ignore the part# shown-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtYKP0kRGSY
Samsungs are great for the coil drain to freeze up. Then it will leak water into the cooling box during the defrost cycle. It is often missed for a bit as the water pools under the crisper drawers at the bottom.
If that Kitchenaid is a french door and has water on the floor of the freezer- there is a rubber piece on the bottom of the drain tube for the defrost that gets gunked up and stops the water from being able to exit.
Once it gunks up= the drain tube freezes.
Accessed from the rear- remove the cover and look for the tube coming out of the floor
It is a french door model from 2005. We fixed one of the leaks by changing the compression fitting where the tubing attaches to the rear back. But within the water assembly I can still see it dripping whenever we use the water dispenser. Kind of where you describe, Josh.
I have someone coming to look at on Friday. It’s above our pay grade. Then decide if it’s fixable or not. :(
Just an $80 part and we are back! If anyone needs an appliance repair service, I will highly recommend mine!
Curious- what was the part?
And was it $80 part- or $80 part + labor.
I'd assume the service call was already separate.
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