Water leaking in house!!
It’s coming out of my downstairs bathroom vent, which is on the ceiling. I think it’s my refrigerator. What do i do ?
Who shall i call?
I found the problem, it’s my refrigerator.
Does anyone know what this part is?
That is the supply valve solenoid for the ice/water. Follow the line back until you find the shut off valve. Typically it will be where that line connects to a larger water line near by. Perhaps in a ceiling in the level below the kitchen or perhaps behind the fridge itself.
Those fittings are known to leak. Once you get the water turned off you can at least try to re-seat the line in the quick connect fitting there on the green valve. You can try to push the line back into the fitting to see if that does it. Best is to release the line by pushing up on the little blue ring while pulling out the line. Then after inspecting the end of the line closely for damage, try to reinstall it by pushing the line all the way into the valve again.
Agree with Greg- if continuous leak, turn off where ever the supply valve is.
Sometimes it is right behind the fridge, but that is rare.
Typically they just drill through the floor, stuff a 1/4 copper line through and tap onto the closest water line downstairs.
Be careful- many times they use cheap clamp on, tap in valves. These can fail and leak on their own just by turning them after a few years. They aren't supposed to be used by any manufacturers recommendation.
If not leaking on it's own all the time, try re-seating the hoses as mentioned above.
Sometimes you can remove the line, cut off about an inch and try again. But be careful what you cut it with not to distort the end which could cause damage to the seal when you push it back together.
It is also possible that the valve is leaking out of the housing (blue plastic part) or from the solenoid area itself (yellow / green parts)- which means time to replace the entire assembly.
Looks like a Whirlpool built part- (which means after 2006- Whirlpool / Kitchenaid / Maytag / Jenn-Air / Amana, etc)
If you give us the model # off the tag inside the door, I can look up the part # for you.
Agreed, those "valves" sometimes have not been turned in so long that they break so know where your next point of turn off (whole house?) is and have a bucket ready as entire home drains...…it will be slow, probably.....
Hey, but what do I know. Replaced a refrig once because of leaky water line.....silly me, but really hated that fridge anyways.....
Thanks for the tips, will check that next time.
On to fixing the microwave door switch......
If using a generic switch, just be aware although it will probably work fine there are certain models and locations where there is a difference in the switch tension and amperage. So the wrong generic switch may not last as long as a factory switch. That being said if it’s something like a GE with their ridiculous parts costs I would still try to cross reference for a cheaper version.
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