Last-Minute Oven Repair
Does anybody know of a technician in the Hackettstown area who would be able to perform a short-notice repair today (12/23) on a GE gas oven? I'm guessing the igniter went out, as the burners and broiler still work, but the oven itself won't bake. This is pretty bad timing given all of the holiday baking that needs to happen in my house between today and tomorrow, so any ideas would be most welcome.
Thanks in advance!
Just take the back panel off the range unplug the igniter and make sure your getting 120v during the ignition period (with the gas shut off). If it doesn't glow while plugged in, it shouldn't be too hard to track one down.
Hi I’m available until 11AM. I can be reached at 201.966.1602(Clinton) All Appliance Matters, LLC -Blairstown.
even if the Ignitor glows, it must glow white bright hot in order to direct enough current to open the gas valve.
Replace the Norton Igniter as it is called or Hot surface Ignitor. approx. $87.00 retail.
There used to be a place near the hackettstown supply plumbing that sold them.
They mount differently, so make sure you bring the old one to match it.
Speaking of oven repair...my oven does not go above around 230 degrees, so it is throwing some heat. Broiler works fine. It’s a hidden element for the oven so we can’t see it. I’ve had elements go before, but it was usually a case of no heat at all. Is it possible that you’re getting some heat, but still have to replace the element or could it be something else?
Could be your thermostat. Is it possible to open the access panel where the element is hidden? Then you could watch it to see how red it glows.
Hey I happen to have an oven repair question too haha- if my gas range was never converted for propane use when it was installed, how can that be remedied? Does a professional need to convert?
Beez: Probably yes and, for me, yes. As in depends on the model, but probably yes. And it's gas, I get a pro. But it's really pretty easy.
May be codes and inspections involved too; just not sure.
If it is electric, many modern ovens turn the broil on half power during preheat.
Since it won't turn red on 120v you won't see that it is on- but it still gives off heat.
Meaning your bake (bottom) isn't heating, but your broil (top) is giving off a little heat...just not nearly as much as when it is getting 240v.
Easiest way to see if the hidden bake is working is to simply (cold oven) put your hand on the floor on the oven and turn it on to bake. You should feel the floor start to warm fairly quickly.
You want to keep your hand there from the moment you hit start- not turn the oven on and try to touch the floor in a minute!
If it is gas and only hitting 230, most likely it is the glow bar bake ignitor.
Of course like a lot of many things- it can be more complicated than an average person thinks-
You may have gas bake and electric broil in the same cavity that still use the broil during preheat as mentioned above.
Some ovens kill the heat when the door is open- you might want to have someone hold the switch shut or tape it. Some have the door switch in the latch assembly.
Some ovens now use a computer controlled spark ignition for the oven, which supplies and monitors feedback from the ignitor and solenoid valve assembly.
And to GC's point- it is possible to have a faulty thermostat that kicks off too early. But that would be extremely unlikely these days unless your oven is both very basic and pretty old as very few ovens use mechanical thermostats for a while now.
If you give us the model # off the tag inside when you open the door we can help you narrow it down a little. :)
Ok- give me a few minutes to look at the data.
From a quick glance at the exploded diagram- it uses an electric temp sensor, so not a 'thermostat' problem.
Probably a failed bake element- but I'll be back in a few.
Talk about ovens. New Whirlpool Smart oven. One month old. Not working when I needed to make a dish for a party. What to do? My hubby treated it like any other smart device. Unplugged it, let it sit for a few minutes, plugged it backed in and ta-da up and working again. The marvels of new technology. Thank goodness it was easy peasy lemon squeesy. I got lucky, I hope you all get yours up and working. Nothing worse than an oven not working. Hate it!!
You are in luck- really cheap and really easy.
The original part # for your unit has been discontinued. I am seeing numerous cases of it failing in 2-3 years.
Original part #- W10774342
New part #- W10779716
Video on how to replace- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsU20AsvNuA
To give you an idea on how there can be changes within the same family- here is a KitchenAid that uses the same bake element- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hks7SH1wmg
Notice similar, but different replacement procedure.
Cheaper at Amazon than most of the appliance places- https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-W10779716-Bake-Element/dp/B015YX9G84
Be careful if you choose a cheaper place as there are knock off versions of the same part made by 'ERP' which will also say 'exact replacement part' or another company called Supco. Both are 3rd party and not OEM.
If you want to play around (at your own risk)- this should apply to your oven for more detailed stuff.
Thank you for all the info, i found the part at a place down in Fairfield. My BIL is supposed to come tomorrow and fix it. Wish us luck! I watched the video on how to change it, doesn’t look to hard if you know what you’re doing.
Josh, element replaced, took 20 minutes, good as new. Your video was helpful for one part, thanks again for all your research.
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