Bollard Installer Recommendation
I am trying to sell my home in Hackettstown and they have new CCO laws which require a bollard to be installed near any water heater residing in a garage. I have never even heard this word before; it is a metal post to prevent a vehicle from driving into the water heater. This requires drilling into the concrete floor. Home Depot, Lowes and the plumber who installed the water heater do not install this.
Does anyone know anyone who could do this? The township said it would need to be 3 feet tall, 30" in front of the water heater and use a minimum of 3/4 inch bolts.
Jason M 
Not sure if they sell bollards in the stores, but you can get one online:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vestil-36-in-X-4-5-in-Yellow-Steel-Pipe-Safety-Bollard-BOL-36-4-5/205458786
Installing it is a simple job for any handy man with a rotary hammer. Drill 4 holes, set some concrete anchors, and tighten the bolts.
Heck, if you like tools get this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-SDS-plus-8-Amp-Keyless-Rotary-Hammer/1082989
and this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-3-4-in-x-8-in-SDS-Plus-Drill-Bit/1091905
and it's almost a DIY job!
I'm positive that any concrete mason could knock this out in no time flat.
Mark Mc. I would be thinking a mason as well. Bencivengo and Scalera are the too local ones mentioned all the time. If neither is available, do a Forum Search for other suggestions.
GC Are u sure it’s a law or code?? When I did some improvements on my home they tried to make me do things that weren’t necessary... When I called him on it and asked for proof I was given a hard time.. I would ask for proof that this is now a requirement....
Mr. tone Anyone with a good drill can do this in minutes. Or buy a good drill. Or rent one.
With a good tool, hardest part will be getting rid of the dust.
With my drill, bursitis and carpel tunnel will set in :>) IE -- get a good drill.
strangerdanger Apparently it is part of the new Continuing Certificate of Occupancy code that was past May 24th. Have I seen physical proof in documented form, no. I have been able to get very little information. However my realtor is now getting involved (as there are other issues) as this is new to her as well. We shall see.
Make them prove it before you do anything... Sounds kinda like over kill to me... Let me guess you need a permit to have it done?? Also at 30” away from water heater wouldn’t that hinder the use of your garage? To hav a bulbous post in the way sounds idiotic! I didn’t realize there was an epidemic of cars running into water heaters...
perhaps it would make more sense to move the heater out of the "line of impact" by a vehicle ??
steven Ok this may seem like a dumb question but why is the town even involved in the sale of your home.
CraftBeerBob “get a good drill.”
I have that Bosch rotary hammer I linked to above. I bet it would be done with all 4 holes before any hammer/impact drill was done with the first hole, especially 3/4” holes in solid concrete (as opposed to block/brick).
The whole install job and several beers would be done before any regular drill even countersunk the tip of the masonry bit just once. Concrete laughs at normal drills.
Here’s a comparison (rotary hammer vs hammer drill).
https://youtu.be/6UMY4lkcCqE
Not sure of they would accept that flange style bollard. Normally you would need to break up the concrete then once through remove 2+ft of dirt and get that post deep enough to actually hold back a vehicle in case of impact. You would fill around it with concrete. Those masonry screws would just bend or shear if a vehicle drove ontp the post.
Forcefed4door 
We’re talking garage/parking speeds here, not high impact protection. Also 1/2” to 3/4” diameter bolts are a bit more than “masonry screws”. 3/4” bolts have thousands of pounds of shear strength (like 30,000+ pounds, and there are 4 on each bollard).
Need to find the codes for NJ.
Here’s an example:
https://www2.iccsafe.org/states/oregon/08_residential/PDFs/Chapter%2013_General%20Mechanical%20System%20Requirements.pdf
See M1307.3.1 and image M1307.2. Bolt on bollards (in this example) are permissible.
Some (at one point applicable to NJ) didn’t even specify much of anything. See the same section here:
https://www2.iccsafe.org/states/newjersey/nj_residential/PDFs/NJ_Res_Chapter13.pdf
"Ok this may seem like a dumb question but why is the town even involved in the sale of your home."
+1000 !!!!! Govt. doing what it does best: OVERREACH.
The only book larger than the code book is the tax law.
JeffersonRepub http://www.russoandkiecklawoffice.com/the-sale-of-real-estate-and-need-for-a-certificate-of-occupancy/
Many towns in NJ had this requirement in place already , Hackettstown just added it as a requirement in May.
This law firm description explains it the best and the reason for it.
Jim L I would confirm how the town needs the bollards installed before you get the bolt down type. When we install bollards we generally set them into the ground using cement filled steel lally columns.
M & K Commenting is no longer available.