Snowblower repair advice


Anyone can help me fix my craftsman snowblower. First is drain whatever fuel left. So I am trying to do this and the shroud cover doesn’t let loose. I don’t want jank it and break something. I tried calling John Home repair and never calls back and other places are too expensive. Should I bother drain whatever is left or just fill up w sea foam. This particular engine doesn’t have air filter. Machine stop working in the middle of snowstorm so I appreciate if someone can help before the next one and as I have disabled kid Hope I didn’t mess the electric connectors either I am around mars chocolate

Joseph Joseph
Jan '18

Which model do you have that needs to remove a shroud? My Craftsman has the gas tank to the side. There is a hose at the bottom of the tank that I just hold my drain pan underneath it. Pull the hose, drain, put the hose back.

As GC stated we need a model number. I'm certain we can help you with the machine.
It is common for some snow blowers not to have air filters as they can introduce moisture (snow) into the carburetor.

Most if not all snowblowers dont have air filters. Its not needed as there is no dust in the snow. If you want to drain the fuel, just pull the hose that connects to the carb. Probably held on with a clamp that can be removed with some pliers. If the hose is stuck you can spin it some or jam a screw driver in there to pry it loose.

If you want all the fuel out remove the carb bowl. Usually 1 bolt on the bottom of the bowl or 2 small bolts, 1 on each side of the bowl.

No need to seafoam. If you leave untreated fuel in your machines year round, you probably need a carb kit to rebuilt the carb. You'll also need a can of carb cleaner to clean all the crap out of the carb. I just did mine as my float was getting stuck and spilling fuel everywhere.

not sack
Jan '18

Not to sound like a jerk- just trying to rule out other things first- a quick spray of starter fluid into the carb will at least show you if it fires at all.

No point chasing a fueling issue if the problem is elsewhere...

Keeping in mind that damn near every problem on a small engine usually ends up being fuel related. ;)

Sea foam is a wonderful thing, even after you get it running you should always run some seafoam.

Just recently I had a issue with my mother in laws truck, cyl. 6 misfire at idle. So bad it would stall out

Replaced the plugs as it was almost at 100,000 miles...nope

Swapped the num 4 coil with num 6 coil.....nope

Double dose seafoam.....fixed within hours...she must of had a clogged/stuck injector.

Any carb job I do, I always run sea foam in the tank afterwards, as it helps clean out any residual gunk.

Darrin Darrin
Jan '18

The first thing I would do is fill with fresh fuel without draining it and try and start the machine. If it starts and runs fine you probably had some moisture in the fuel that froze and made the snowblower shut off. This has happened to me with blowing snow landing on the tank and somehow getting in. I add a bit of gas line antifreeze to the tank when it’s really cold out like it’s been to prevent this.

Greatmeadows Greatmeadows
Jan '18

check out u tube

Steven Steven
Jan '18

Anyone know of a local person or place that can fix an old snowblower?

lynn - There are several places around, including Chuck & Tammy's 9 Russling Road near Best's. Or Mayberry's on Main St in Port Murray.

Check the Forum Search for some of the feedback.

Graffe Engine ..183/206 next to Black forest Inn

Google MTD...they are sam as craftsman & yardman if older ones..u tube is good as well.

Steven Steven
Jan '18

Great, thank you!!!

We purchased our snowblower from Mayberry services in Port Murray. This is a bad time of the year for them because others have issues with their snowblowers and they might be booked up. They will pick up your snowblower for eighty dollars or you can deliver it yourself. I run mine dry of gasoline when the snow season is almost over. If gasoline is left in it by accident, I drain it and mix it with the fresh that I have in my garage. Whenever I purchase gasoline I put Sta-Bil brand fuel stabilizer in the can first and get the can filled. This way, my gas is always fresh. Good Luck,Robert

Robert Rowe Robert Rowe
Jan '18

I use problems.

Thanks to all.. It is a craftsman 24" Model no. 247.881731, it has no fuel filter..I tested again using fresh fuel+seafoam and it runs fine.. hopefully it will run this wednesday snowstorm because the last one, the machine went dead. hate when it happens.. Is $90 for pickup delivery at Mayberry.
Last year, i run the machine into a steel plate and got stuck in the augers.. i had to replace the gearbox assembly and since then, machine is acting funny

joseph joseph
Jan '18

"I'm funny how? I mean, funny like I'm a clown? I amuse you? I make you laugh?"

LOL. Hopefully with a few more sessions of use it will get back to normal. I actually have an issue with my Craftsman snow blower as well. I had to run it with partial choke near the end of use last week. I'm very diligent with maintenance and such but I guess it needs my attention. The good thing is I have never met any kind of combustion engine I couldn't tame! LOL.

Greg you most likely had the same problem as Joseph just some moisturizer in the fuel that froze with the really cold weather causing it to starve for fuel. I’ve had this happen to me more than once so I now add a small amount of dry gas at every fill up no more problems. My snapper has vents in the fuel cap that I think let the moisture in. Starts first pull every time

Greatmeadows Greatmeadows
Jan '18

I use a blend of reg +premium gas, always put stabil in at end of year and fill tank with premium "to the very top" of tank....when season starts, drain gas and put fresh in.....starts right up ( so far anyway ), for last 10+ years ( an old timer suggested that to me over a decade ago...seems if tank if "full" condensation will be minimal .

Steven Steven
Jan '18

Take the snowblower to L&H Services Rt 46 in Great Meadows.Great place. Here is a link.

Jan '18


But mine snowblower started running fine last snowstorm for just 2 minutes. It started again, then it died.. So it starts but it dies when the speed is engaged. Not sure if is attributed to frozen line. But lets see this wednesday..anyone has good recommendations on electric snowblower. i have shoulder problems from surgery, so anything makes my life easier, bring it on.

joseph joseph
Jan '18

If it dies under load that is more then likely a fuel issue, aka clogged line with ice or clogged float, or bad gas.

If we end up only getting a few inches tomorrow I would still take it out and put it through it's paces, remember, sea foam works best when things sit for a while because it is constantly cleaning. It is also a fuel stabilizer. So if the snow blower is still not 100%, but it is much better, run it for a while and let it sit again, sea foam will keep working.

Darrin Darrin
Jan '18

Any local Ariens repair person recommendations?

My auger belt keeps eating itself! Alignment looks good, but it is weak under load and will stop with heavy snow load. The shaft seems to turn fine, a little wiggle, but I don't think anything out of the ordinary.

Any of the shops mentioned above should be able to handle it.

It sounds like a tension adjustment, incorrect belt size, or a misalignment issue. It may be something bent that is only noticed when running. I would take several measurements while turning by hand the pulley and shafts to be sure all is operating within spec. Worn bearings can also cause havoc under load.

Mine is fine but has been groaning upon occasion on these last two snows. My chute is locked at a 50% angle and this does not help either. Had to clear multiple times for last snow. And this is driven by my lawn tractor on full throttle so certainly more power was not a sure fire cure.

No issue at all in the "higher elevations" where the snow was a bit cooler. Just bogging down as the snow became wetter sometimes just gurgling out of the chute.

strangerdanger strangerdanger
Apr '18

Kurt. What brand of belt are you using?

Not sack
Apr '18

Any chance the housing is cracked or loose? It can cause an out of alignment you wouldn't normally suspect is going on.

Meanwhile I have to decide on what to do with mine. Chain keeps coming off. I can put it back on, but it's just to the point of so often to be a nuisance. I already know when I replaced on wheel that the chock holding it in place went missing. I can't seem to find a good replacement of the right diameter. And even if I did, the thing has had younger days. It may be time just to replace it.

Take a link out maybe?

Meanwhile; yeah if you have a lot of pulleys, sometimes hard to notice a slight bend. Just keep busting belts till you see where it is (not really). Had a 20-yr old wheel horse throwing the engine to deck belt. Some hammering and a number of belts later, went another ten years. But they were made for that.

On my new one, I took it in when I bent it.

Strangerdanger Strangerdanger
Apr '18

Yeah, SD wheel horse, case, the old cub cadet stuff was built to go forever. I was looking at the used section of Mayberry’s website. They have a 1984 Case rider with a lawn mower deck for $850. That thing will probably last another 30 years.

Apr '18

My second wheel horse has 25 years: only got it because I could no longer identify the parts falling off the "older" one. The only changes for the new one were things that broke on the old one including the governor/pulley assembly that caused me so many belts, only belts lost ere my fault on the new one. Almost bought one on the side of the road just for parts (even though I have another tractor as well....)

Old engine was Kohler, this one Onan, both great. Onan has left a puff of oil on any warm start but in 25 years has never used any oil. It's a mystery but if it works......

Too bad Toro ruined it; they did have a "Classic" for awhile but all gone now.

strangerdanger strangerdanger
Apr '18

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